Week 9 (Week Beginning 22/03/10)

Tell me why I don't like Mondays...

I don't really need to tell you when I can show you...

My piece decided it wanted to have a go at flying when I introduced it to the pumice wheel. I had been doing fine for most of that day on a flat felt wheel to get the flat surfaces all polished up with pumice. Some one else needed to use it so I went on the the brush wheel to polish off the curvier surface. I was going quite well until the tip got caught in the bristles and the wheel pulled it out of my hands launching it into the metal trough under the wheel breaking off the tip of the piece and scratching the piece a little too.

I was left in tears and shock for a little while. I'm really glad I have some lovely friends around to take care of me and cheer me up with chocolate. I managed to pull myself together faster than I expected I would have at the moment I felt the piece pull away from my hands and smash, it's a wounder what chocolate and a bit determination can do.

I had also decide last week that if I got this piece finished I would submit it to the international glass festival for the student prize. So at the end of last week I was preparing to get photos done and finish filling out forms, for this reason I really waned to push on and get the piece finished. After a little break me Dave and Jo had a little conference about what could be done with the piece (binning it was not an option, not that I would have done that anyway) We decide to try to follow the flow from the curves in the piece and curve off the edge by carving it down on the diamond wheel.
I couldn't get this done straight away like I would have wanted to because Simon the only one able to change the diamond wheel wheel wasn't in, so I tried to think of something else to get on with and keep positive about this piece.

Other things to get on with

I carved a plaster modle a couple of weeks ago but with all the polishing I had almost forgoten about it to I dicided that I would eventually like to get this into glass and so started cutting up all of my gelflex I could find and start soaking the plaster. Also I have a feeling over the next few week people are going to be after all the equipment they can get their hands on so I'm better off getting it done now so I can get some waxes out in the week and make some moulds to dry over the easter holidays.

When cutting up the gexflex I suspected that I wouldn't have enought  to fill my mould. I found this to be true when pouring the gelfex into the mould. As the gelflex statered to cool I tried using a stick to push the gelfex up over the bit of the mould that wasnt completlyey covered. This shouldn't be too much of a problem, when the gelflex has cooled I will pour over some plaster this will keep the shape and stiffen the mould.
On a positive note the gelfelx didn't bubble.
Also during the week I managed to get two waxes done and in moulds. 

 
While I was gelfexinging I also got a wax from my two part mould from the other week and set up some boards to make a two part mould. Not quite sure what I'll do with it yet but, I have thought about carving into the glass surface with the diamond wheel rather than making the modle and carving it first and making multiples of the one shape. If I were to carve the glass insted I could make it so every piece is a one off. I might cast this with clear glassma and have a go if I have time or I haven't come up with any better ideas to work on over the holidays. Alternitivly I could use the gaffer colours and polish like in my other pieces so that the contrast is between the the form and the shapes within the glass rather than, the contrast in the form. I don't think that the colours and the flow within the clours of the glass seem to suit the form very well. Or if I don't do any of this keep the mould cast it later and polish in my own time then sell it when I've finished university when I've finally thought about what I want to do with the piece.
Anyway back to mould making, when making this mould I found out that we wer out of HT, so insted I would need to use fiber strands. So the mixture for this mould was 4liter of Water mixed with 2.8kg of Plaster, 2.8kg of Silica and 4 spoon fulls of fiber strands. The mix filled the mould very nicely no excess, yay.

Carving

After some work on on the diamond wheel, linisher and the pumice wheel I managed to alter the piece to a form I was happy with. Originally I wanted the piece to stand with the wave underneath but when I was polishing I started looking at the piece from different angles and thought that this way suited the piece best and in a way I thought it looked a little like a butterfly wing, very pretty. The shape also looks like a wave now and the clours really add to it. I'm really proud I managed to do something with the piece even after it got broken. Some people have even said how much they prefer the way this one looks to the way it was before, they are probably being nice. I like it any way :)

Now to get it cleaned up and photographed...

Week 4 (Week Beginning 15/02/10) Continued

Kiln Casting

At the start of week 3 I made a mould to make Sven a twin brother, but not an identical one. When I made the mould I made some space of excess glass by sitting the piece on some rolled out clay and cut around the edges to continue the shape and because the last one I did, I had to spend some time flat bedding the piece so it could be could on the glass band saw. This way I would have to do as much cold working and if I needed some glass cut off I could get it done faster. I used the same mould mix of Plaster, Silica, HT and water but I ended up having to get some more mould mixture after I had poured because I had made the walls around the mould slightly wider than I did the last time. When the mould had dried long enough so I could take away the walls I cleaned up the mould and removed the wax and clay using some tools. When I was happy the mould was clean enough I put the mould in the drying cuboard and left it there until Friday. I wanted to see if I could get more of the copper colour in the glass (without buying the Light Copper Oxide colour of the Gaffer Casting Crystal, which I am considering getting for my final piece of work) so instead of just sieving the copper oxide in I just tipped a load in (I know very technical) then brushed it around the mould to cover all the surfaces, I wanted to put some into the flowerpot reservoir I was using but I've done this before and it makes an orb of colour in the middle of the piece (not really what I wanted). Instead of doing a displacement test I took Sven and weighed him on some scales, he was about 680g. Then I weighed out 680g of glass but it didn't look like very much compared to the size of Sven, so I put and extra 100g in because I thought about hown I had needed to cold work the piece so I'd taken some weight off (not 100g but its better to have more than you need compared to not enough). When I had set every thing up, put the glass in to the flower pot and set up some pieces of kiln shelf to rest it on and put it in the kiln to cast over the weekend. But unfortunately someone must have opened it and forgot to turn it back on or I was a bit of a plum and forgot to turn it on - but I am very sure I turned it on. Anyway when I came in on Monday morning to see how the cast was going I discovered my glass set up just as I had left it (cold and un melted). So I locked the kiln and turned it on checking it repeatedly to check no one was trying to mess with my head....

Here is the kiln program I used:

100 ⁰C/hr → 550 ⁰C → Pass hrs
Full ⁰C/hr → 880 ⁰C → 11.00 hrs
(held longer to try to get rid of bubbles)
Full ⁰C/hr → 520 ⁰C → 15.00hrs
10 ⁰C/hr → 300 ⁰C → Pass
20 ⁰C/hr → 100 ⁰C → Pass
End

And here is how the piece looked when int came out the kiln:

After looking at this piece I'm starting to lean towards using coloured casting billets to get a consistent colouring throughout the piece, but I could still use copper oxide with the billets to add a bit more colour and detail to the pieces. Not sure yet though, especially as I have moved on to make my forms with a mixture of surface textures.


Gelflex Mould

In my last post I had started to develop a plaster modal with a mixture of curvy flowing surface to contrast the geometric form. I have decided that I want to see how this will look in glass so I flatted off the straight edges but hand laping the plaster against a sheet of sand blasted sheet glass and used sand paper to smooth out the curvy surface ready to make a gelflex mould of it.
When setting up my piece of plaster I sat my piece of plaster on a rolled out sheet of clay and cut around it to leave me with a bit of over flow when pouring wax after the gelflex is made and it will provide the overflow for my investment moulds. When I was waiting for the gelflex to melt I used a spray bottle to keep the plaster damp so the plaster doesn't stick to the gelflex.
The gelflex I used for this mould was my old one I had for making brothers for Sven, and after that had been melted it didn't look like i would have enough so I managed to find out an old gelflex that I had forgotten about to cut in to tiny chunks to put into the melting pot. I started heating the gelflex at 150⁰C but it was taking a long time for the gelflex to start melting even with the lid on so I turned it up to 165⁰C that seemed to work a lot better. It took around 2hrs to melt completely. When the gelfex had melted I turned off the pot and left it for just over 30mins and stirred it regularly. I think I may have poured it a little too soon there were a few bubbles rising to the surface, especially near where the point at the top of the plaster is. I usually leave gelflex to cool for around 45mins but in some of my moulds haven't picked up all the detail and there have been streaks in the gelflex, this is why I poured it earlier.
Didn't seem like too bad a mould but I'll have to wait until the mould has cooled completely so I can take the plaster out and have a look, and then I can go on to make a wax from it and see how my new form will look in glass. This wont be my final piece, it's just a test to see how the contrasting surfaces work together. I really want to see how the curves look when looking through the glass on the other side of the piece.
Also really proud because Mark our plaster technician (and a legend) commented on how beautiful the piece was *Happy Kimi*


Random Photo

Can't remember taking this photo, but I really like it...

"Hello Feet"

Desk Watch (08/02/10)

My desk is looking a lot fuller today, just wanted to share that with everyone.

As you can see I have spent some time doing some drawing and painting (not great one though) and I'm soaking some plaster ready to cut up a new shape on the band saw in the week.

Desk Watch (05/02/10)

Desk at the end of week 2. Still looking a bid naked dispite the new glass editions, could do with some images stuck up of my inspiration. This will be my aim for the end of week 3

Also in the week I made a second investment mould for my arcitectual form, and have booked a kiln for the 11th and over the week end, I'm hoping I'll be able to use the same kiln as last time because I was really happy with the results, may hold the top temperature for an hour or so longer to get rid of those last few bubble, not sure weather to use the copper oxide again although I have been getting a lot of positive feed back off fellow students and staff about the ascetics of the piece. I have worked on making another wax for lost wax casting but as I'm not very happy with how the gelfex turned out last time, I'm planning to make a new gelflex mould and reinforcing it with plaster to make it stronger and so it holds its shape better. I've also made a a copy of the arcitectual shape after the original has been chipped and worn down while I was using it in hot casting and I have put the off cut glass from my kiln cast in a kiln with some copper oxide sprinkled under it, thought it might be a idea to use it to make some related pieces of jewelry.

Week 2 (Week Beginning 01/02/10) Continued

Kiln Casting

This week I was able to take the glass I had casted the Friday before out of the kiln. When I first looked into the kiln I was very impressed with my cast, there were very few bubbles, it was very clear and I couldn't see any signs of devitrification on the surface. All the glass had flowed through the flower pot and there was a little too much, fortunately I had made the mould to accommodate for a little extra glass.
When I took the flower pot and the kiln shelves it was resting on off the mould you could see where the kiln shelf had been and that the way the glass had flowed out the mould had pushed the copper oxide out to the corners of the mould, before I put the mould in to the kiln I sievedd the copper oxide power all over the mould to get the blue copper colour all around the piece.
When I got the glass out of the mould I really liked the way the copper oxide looked like it was bleeding into the center of the glass like routes or veinesss. This has inspired the idea of combining my arcitectualll forms with organic forms and textures like glass artists Colin Ried and Sue Nixon.
and model making.
There were some lumps on the surface and they weren't all completely flat as the shape had warped when it had the gel flex mould taken of it, I may make a plaster mould next time I work with these angular shapes so I don't lose too much of the surface colour or detail. But before I could start polishing I needed to remove the overflow from the glass, my original idea was to put the piece in plaster and put the it in to the lap saw but I was worried that the corner with acute angles would chip or break off. I asked around a few people for their opinion, the solution I settled for was to flatten of one of the edges so the bottom of the piece, it needed to be flat and at a 90 so that it could be pushed through the glass band saw.
The glass wasn't completely flat after it was cut so I flat bedded where it had been cut off and the other two largest surfaces because they weren't very flat either and there were a few lumps on there too. The glass was flat bedded on a 120grit bed, then polished down the edges on the linisher so that they wouldn't be so weak or chip too. I left the smaller surfaces because I wanted to keep some of the cast surface and colour, when I flat bedded the piece I ground away a lot of colour trying to get the piece flat.
Below is an image of the piece after it was flat bedded, I left it a bit wet when I took the photo to show the colours in it and how it would look when I start to polish it some more. I need to get more practice polishing ready for when I make my piece to display at the degree show and new designers.
I am not sure what to make of this piece, I like to think of my work as art pieces but there seems to be a need for my work to also have a function rather than, just be a piece of art work, I have considered thinking of it as being a piece of lighting but I'm not sure that this is what I want for my work. I have also thought about using the shape rather than just using it in glass sculpture and thinking of how it could work in another context. I have thought about designing contemporary bathroom fitting material fitting, for example I think this would make if the shape was adjusted sligtly and hollowed out the shape would make a very modern and interesting shaped sink or bath. I have also thought about using my hot cast pieces for lighting or as small windows, I think the the hot casting process would be more fitted to working with product design because it is easier to make multiples and there isn't as much polishing needed as there is in kiln casting.


For now I have named the piece Sven, as it is my baby so it should be named not sure why but me and Miss Clark came to the conclusion that is looked Swedish. Until next time, it good bye from me and it's good bye Sven (It's late and I'm sleepy)

Week 2 (Week Beginning 01/02/10)

Hot Casting

On the Monday of this week I got an induction into hot casting. I decided to use some of the shapes I had already cut out of plaster and smoothed off, unfortunately one of the shapes was slightly undercut so it was hard to get the shape pressed into the sand so I ended up using just a bit of shape to press into the sand. So if I decide to do any more sand casting (which I probably will) I need to remember that there shouldn't be any under cuts and also the finish is important too, Simon suggested using car lacquer so the plaster is smoother and wont absorb the water in the sand and will leave a neater imprint.
In the image above on the right are the things I used for hot casting, had to put a handle on one of the pieces of plaster so I could push it in and pull it out easily, the handle was just a piece of wood glued on with araldite.I used gloves when sieving the sand so if there were any bits of glass in the sand I would cut myself on them, the trowel i used to flatten the edges of the sand where I had pushed in my plaster models, the largest piece of wood and the knife were used to get the pieces out of the sand after it had been cast, there is a small stick for poking air holds around the mould and water because it was really hot in there.
Before I could start forming the moulds in the sand I had to sieve it out first so the sand was nice and "fluffy", this was so that when the plaster was pushed in the sand had space to compact together and so that when the glass gets poured in any air can escape so there aren't any bubbles in the glass. Simon had put water in the tray of sand that morning so it needed to be mixed up and sieved out, he shoveled the majority of the contents of the tray into a bin then set up two long pieces of wood across the tray to rest the slieve on. When I had sieved out enought sand Simon used a piece of wood to flatten out the surface of the sand ready to push my plaster pieces into the sand.
When I had pushed my pieces into the sand I used a trowel and my fingers to compress the sand a little to hold the edge together and so its won't crumble when I use the blow torch on it. Next I wiggles the model from side to side a little so I could get it out without ruining the mould or knocking the sand out of place. When doing multiple sand casts you need to remember to have a decent amount of space between each of the moulds. When all the mould were all set out they need to be sprayed with a mixture of distilled or deionized water and graphite, one of the mould I didn't spray to see how it would look with the sandy then poked holes around the edges of the piece but not to close to help any air escape preventing bubbles in the glass.


Because the sand was wet it needed to be dried out before I could get glass poured into my moulds, to dry them off I used a blow torch to for a few minuets, for the first couple of minuets there was a lot of steam coming out of the moulds, so I kept going until there was almost no steam. Then I sieved a small amount off copper oxide into a couple of the moulds to compare to the kiln cast pieces that had copper oxide in too.
Simon then took a gather from the furnace on a iron with a ball at the end of it, the smaller pieces only need one gather but the larger pieces needed two. When Simon had dripped an amount of glass into the mould he held the hot end of the iron over the glass heat up the top of the glass so that it would smooth out.
The glass was left for a while to cool, then with a knife Simon cut around the glass to make a little jacket he told me it was to keep the heat in the piece and it helped with the annealing process and to minimise the contact with the glass. The piece of glass were then but on to a board and carried to a kiln for them to anneal. After the glass had been taken to the kiln I needed to mix and fluff the sand up (while wearing gloves because of the steams) and then smooth out the surface to make it easier for the next person using the sand to move around and sieve out, when I had done this I places a plastic sheet over the tray to keep the moisture in the sand. It took about 24 hours for the kiln to get to a low enough temperature for me to be able to take them out, and after I had taken them out they were still quite hot, so I was unable to clean the pieces in water but I was able to use a wire brush to dust away some of the sand that got stuck to the glass. To the right is an image of the results of my sand casting attempt, the two larger ones that look darkest are the ones I had copper oxcide in, the rest are just clear glass and the one in the middle of the smalles pieces is the piece I cast without spraying any grafite into the sand. I really enjoyed the process and was happy with the result, I plan on making some more plaster models to make a range of shapes to test with sand casting.

Desk Watch (29/01/10)

The best way to judge a student is by their desk so heres mine: I'm hoping by the end of next week there will be a lot more interesting thing on there for me to show you.

Week 1 (Week Begining 25/01/10)

Casting Architectural Forms

For this new semester I have decided to carry on with some of the work I started last semester and expand upon what I have already done and taking my inspiration from architectural forms (in particular new and modern architecture like the work of Zara Hadid)
In the first semester I started using the band saw in the plaster room to make shapes cause I was having trouble modeling in card and wasn't able to accurately draw the shapes in my sketch book. After spending some time practicing on the band saw I came up with a couple of shapes I was happy with.
Above is the shape I was most pleased with. After flattening off the sides by using water and hand lapping the plaster against a sheet of sandblasted glass I soaked the plaster ready to make a gel flex mould of it. When the mould had cooled completely I poured wax into the mould and to make a wax duplicate of my plaster model in order to do a lost wax cast. The wax I made was hollowed out so that it wouldn't take too long to get the wax out of the cast (this is where I left off with this piece last semester). On the Tuesday of the first week I made the investment mould for the piece using a mixture of plaster (1.2kg), silica (1.2kg), HT (800g) and water (just over 2lts). When the mould had hardened I cleaned it up and removed the wax (because the wax was hollow I didn't bother steaming it and scraped out a bit of the wax and the rest I was able to just pull out of the mould. The mould was left a few days in the drying cupboard for it to dry completely.

Using a displacement test I found that I would need about 500ml of glass to fill the mould, so I measured out a little more than 500ml of Glasma Glass (from the hot shop) just in case. I then put the glass into a flower pot because the glass wouldn't all fit into the mould. Before putting the glass onto the mould I sieved some copper oxide onto the mould to give the glass a blue colour (this is also carrying on from some of the work I did last semester). I then rested the flower pot on top of some kiln shelf wrapped in ceramic fiber paper so if there is too much glass and the kiln shelf and the glass touch there wont be a compatibility problem.

When I was happy with how everything was set up in the kiln I shut the kiln and set it for a full cast. This is the program I used:

100 ⁰C/hr → 550 ⁰C → Pass hrs
Full ⁰C/hr → 880 ⁰C → 10.00 hrs
Full ⁰C/hr → 530 ⁰C → Pass
10 ⁰C/hr → 520 ⁰C → 11.00 hrs
10 ⁰C/hr → 300 ⁰C → Pass
20 ⁰C/hr → 100 ⁰C → Pass
End

The kiln was set on 29/01/10 I will post an image of how the piece comes out when the program is complete.

Carrying On

I starter on a piece last semester and I wasn't able to completely finish it in time for hand in so this week I have spent some time on it trying to get it polished.

The piece was a lot taller but there were cracks and I didn't want them to run through the rest of the piece. I managed to get a good polish with pumice on the polishing wheel but because of the shape its going to take some time to get to a high polish. There are also some chips in the piece and a large concave area where there was a crack in the mould so the glass much have flowed out as it was cooling, I have been thinking about using the diamond wheel to smooth down these area so they look better and are easier to polish. I was intending to enter this piece to the warm glass award but the lack of technicians has meant I haven't been able to have much time in the cold work shop.

Hot Work

On the Friday afternoon I made a seconded wax of the shape in casting architectural forms, and when I was waiting for it to cool I had planned to do some polishing but no one was in to keep an eye on the cold work shop so I decided to go and do some work in the hot shop, not really aiming to make anything just wanted to practice shaping and see if I could still manage working with hot glass. I took a few gathers but didn't do any blowing because I had a cold sore, so spent a lot of time shaping and re-heating the glass. I didn't keep the piece in the end because I didn't fancy paying for it and it didn't seem very relevant to my work. But after having a chat with Simon (the hot glass technician) about my work he suggested doing hot casts of the plaster pieces I had already made. I haven't done any hot casting before so Simon said he would help me on Monday afternoon to see if I was interested in incorporating it in to my work.

Introduction

My name is Kim Farmer, I am a 3rd year Glass student at Wolverhampton University.
The majority of my work is kiln cast but I didn't learn how to cast until the second year of my course after I spend the first year doing ceramics and textiles as well as glass. In the glass section of my course I spent a lot of time working in hot glass, I still occasionally go into the hot shop but that's if it's really cold everywhere else.
For this last semester I will be carrying on with kiln casting because I feel my work is strongest working method (and doing a bit of hot casting just for fun) and I will need something strong and well finished to display at the Degree Show and for New Designers. I will be posting my progress on here as often as I can.

I have decided to write my log book in the form of a blog so I can keep up to date with my work and so my technical notes are always accessible.
I would like it for any visitors to the site to post comment on my work to let me know what they think or if they have any questions or advice.